Summer Project L5 to L6

September Research

From the beginning of the month i have been working on designing my collection. I have mostly focused on the drape images from my sketchbook to create my designs.

Below you can view the 30 pages of designs

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I have also been working on narrowing down my designs to create a collection. I began by choosing pieces that i really love and i think would have potential (these are marked with yellow stickers), next i moved onto narrowing these down further (pink stickers) and finally to my 6 outfit collection (blue stickers). I did originally choose a different outfit for the final 6, however when looking at this as a whole i felt that this piece didn’t work as well and instead opted in a different outfit which included a shirt which i thought gave more of a range.

After i started taking my fabrics from the London trips and pairing them with the outfits, one of winter and one for summer. I’m more drawn towards winter for the fabric choices and the colour palette, i feel that my collection would work better for winter. When i come to working on the fully illustrated line up i want to pay more attention to details and placement of seams etc.

Initial Colour Palettes

My initial thought process for the colour palettes came from the Fall out boy album covers as i felt that these would most suit my collection as its based with subculture and what i identify to the most. So from the different colours i came up with a winter and a summer colour palette. For the winter palette i wanted a lot of dark colours such as purples and burgundy, but i also wanted to pair this with grey and white to lighten the palette slightly. For the Summer palette i wanted to use a real mix of colours (I’m not sure whether this is a suitable palette yet) I wanted to include white and grey to lighten it up, but i also wanted red/mustard/green as i thought these could work well together.

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Initial Line up front and back 

These designs are to be illustrated in full colour and changed slightly so that they fit together as a whole collection.

Front line upBack Line upRe-designing line up

After re-drawing my final 6 i do feel much more confident with my decisions and everything really coming together. I really like the fact that i can also see where my designs have come from (draping over the summer). However i want to re-work these designs on the computer so that i can drop different fabrics into the illustrations so i can make my mind up about fabrics because this is an area i’m still unsure about.

Beginning of my working drawings, i have started my working drawings by looking at my draping work but i am 100% sure that these are going to change as i begin making my garments.

August Research 

August has mostly consisted of evaluating my work from July, ensuring that the fabrics and fastenings that I have chosen would be the correct choice for myself. I went back to London to have another look at fabric options, but also to visit the G-star flagship store and see a few exhibitions that i felt may inspire me such as the Grayson Perry Exhibition.

Other than this i have been working on my sketchbook and really narrowing down my research and choosing a concept which i am happy with and i feel that motivates me to create my collection.

Below you can view PDFS of my sketchbook so far.

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I began by taking inspiriting from my pervious project, Design identity. Within this project i really felt that i found my style as a designer, and this was a concept which really drove my work. So I again looked at subculture, something i feel that i identify with, since a young age the music that i grew up with from my parents has really shaped the style that i chose to dress, the music i listen to and who i want to be as a designer.

From going between womenswear and unisex from the past couple of years, i have decided that i would like to begin designing for menswear. Even though i shall be starting with this i want to keep a genderless feel to my work so that it does have the possibility of being unisex/androgynous collection. Keeping with this idea i have looking into subcultures, icons within the subculture that show masculinity and femininity within both men and woman and the way that they can go between the two.

Keeping with the idea of having strong menswear features i looked into typically masculine clothing such as military wear and workwear for inspiration for features to include in my work. Whilst also incorporating an element of drape which is seen as a more feminine aspect within clothing. Hopefully by fusing all these elements together my concept will show through in my designs whilst keeping my strong identity within my designs.

So far within my fabric choices, illustrations and print work i haven’t made much progress which i am upset about. I really need to refine the fabric choices down due to the fact that i have too much choice and this is hindering my decisions.

I have tried out a few fabric samples such as rust dying, but this wasn’t so successful. However from washing this fabrics and distressing them i can really see how doing this gives a completely different effect to the fabric, which can be so effective and i need to consider this in my work. I will be looking back on my old illustrations and drawing style from the last project to produce something more up to date for this project, but i am also playing with the idea of just adding texture to the fabric instead of a print.

July Research

I’ve started by completing the brand storyboards and the GFW and Bournemouth show storyboards with their write ups. I am meant to have 2 Catwalk designers and 2 high end high street that compliment the catwalk designers. However when researching i have highlighted Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood, Acne, Y-3 and G-Star RAW. I know this isn’t as fitting too the brief as it could be but i feel that these designers either play a part in the designer that i aspire to be, or designers that i need to keep in mind to create effective menswear.

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This is also my storyboards for the shows that i went to see and my highlights from Bournemouth show, GFW AUB show, Nottingham Trent Show and Bath Spa.

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London

Fastenings and Fabrics

Various fastenings and fabrics found in Kliens, Misan, Goldhawk road, cloth house, etc.

Store Research

Rick Owens

 

Rick Owens Store Experience (Highlight)

 From visiting the Rick Owens store in Mayfair, London I was very worried about walking into the store to take pictures of the clothing. However, I was nicely surprised with the chilled atmosphere and the very helpful and knowledgeable shop assistant who gave me a lookbook and allowed me to take pictures of the overall store.

 

Upstairs is the catwalk collections whilst downstairs is the new ready-to-wear collections. Most of the shoes are unisex, but from what the assistant in the shop explained to me was usually women go for the knee high trainers whereas the men go for the lower cut ones, these two style of shoes were their best selling footwear pieces. From looking at the rails inside the shop I soon realized that all of the trousers were taller than the whole of my body, but from asking about this I was told that all the catwalk pieces are kept long and unhemmed so that when customers came to choose their garments they were altered to their desired fit. I was also told that many celebrities come into this store as this is the only one in England.

 

When asking about their customer base and who tends to buy which pieces the assistant told me that they have customers from all over the world, but generally Asian customers brought the most and really loved buying the trainers and joggers, more of a sportswear vibe. When asking about their best sold pieces I was told that their joggers have been sold out constantly even though they have only been with them for two seasons. The assistant continued to say that generally Owens keeps to the best sellers and just changes a few small pieces on it, such as colour, pockets because clearly the style and fit of the joggers are a hit. The fabrics are generally same for the men’s and woman’s clothing, but the only change in this seems to be a few of the colours, more light for the woman and darker for the men even though most pieces could be seen as unisex despite colour. Many of the outfits came as ‘two pieces’ such as a similar trouser and top, but they were interchangeable throughout the collection so that the buyer would not be limited. One of my most favorite pieces in the whole store was a long line puffer jacket, it just felt so weightless and comfortable, this was made from nylon and goose down.

 

The overall design of the store was just as considered as the clothing, walking downstairs the walls seemed like a type of cave with beautiful texture, everything laid out neatly, having a place and being shown in collection order. The store assistant said that it’s a really lovely company to work for and he’d actually been with them for 5 years, your voices are heard within the company and he said the best part was the occasional invites to the catwalk shows!

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Vivienne Westwood

Dover Street Market

Balenciaga Store

Balenciaga Exhibtion 

The Balenciaga exhibition was by far one of my favourite things that i had seen in london over the week. My favourite parts were the videos which were shown alongside the garments of how the patterns looked and how the garment was constructed. The way in which the garment was sewn together looked very simple, but the pattern cutting was so clever that when you are looking at the garment you couldn’t figure out how this was created. My favourite part to the exhibition was the show upstairs were it showcased other designers which had used Balenciaga as inspiration to create their own looks, each very different but coming from the same place which did open up my mind to looking at concepts in very different ways.

Graduate Fashion Week

The next shows that I went to see was AUB, Bath spa and Nottingham Trent at graduate fashion week. I have picked out a few of my favourite collections from each university. Images from the show, designers instagram and graduate fashion week instagram and website.

AUB

Dan Rynne

The photos that i was able to take at the show aren’t of the best quality because of the seating so instead i have found some images from the designers instagram and the graduate fashion week website. Watching Dan create his collection at university really had me excited to see it down the runway. This is probably one of my favourite collections I saw, I can really see how each piece could work together and how it would be interchangeable and make many different outfits which I think is important especially for menswear. The fabrics look really beautiful, as if each and everything had been considered and that nothing was an after thought.

Joe Flanagan

The reason for loving this collection is because these pieces have inspired me to want to incorporate knit into my work. Normally i wouldn’t even consider knit as i just think of it as big chunky granny jumper but from seeing Joe’s work, especially the purple jumper, as inspired me to want to try knit. I think my doing this it would add an extra element to my work which could really help me develop. I also feel that his work gives more of a feminine edge to menswear which is something I would like to bring to my work.

Kristian Østvik

In university i didn’t see much of Kristian’s work apart from his penis flower embroidery, and from this i really wanted to see how something like this would go down the catwalk at GFW. So when i was the collection these rude patches were actually really subtle and I think this added to the effect. I love how the collection works, i really like the elements of the skinhead streetwear vibe as streetwear is something that i really try to look to in my own work. How his work went down the catwalk was just as well executed, the first model only having trousers on with his bare chest, to then later be accompanied by the chest print jumper which actually looks so realistic.

Nottingham Trent University

Abby Coop

Most of the designers that saw at NTU show i am following on instagram as i have been really excited to see their work. Firstly, Abby Coop, i’m just in love with the sillouhettes of the garments and how they have been pared with knit the whole collection works together and i really enjoy the simple colour palette so that you can really focus on the textile element. Again this is another collection that has inspired me to try knit.

Amy Vanderwall

Again the element of streetwear drew me towards this collection, and there seems to be this running theme of the knitwear pieces being what i see as the focal points. Even though there are a few different colours, prints and patterns this really works for the punk aspect of the collection and actually i think that’s what makes it work.

Sarah Raffettey

When this collection came down the runway i have never been more impressed. The way that the concept of Money, business men, suits and tailoring have been used works so well. Even though the idea of business men gives a very masculine image i feel that the choice of fabrics and garments gives a very slight feminine edge, which is why i love sarahs work so much. Everything about this collection has sophisticated, the concept the colours, the fabrics but I just really enjoy how fashion forward it looks also.

Bath Spa

Catlyn Rees

From watching the Bath spa show nothing particullarly jumped out at me apart from Catlyn’s work. The reasoning for this isn’t because i particularly like the collection, but because i can see how all these pieces work together and i can’t imagine how long the puffer jackets and print work must have taken. Her concept is also shown very strongly as it waked down the catwalk from the clothing to the music choice.

Insperation on the stands

AUB show Bournemouth

To begin my summer research I went and saw the AUB show at the Pavillion, not just for the COS live project that I participated in but also to see the hard work of the third years. I have added a few photos and small descriptions of collections that I liked.

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I really love this collection from this show. I like the idea of an all black collection, but usually i feel that this wouldn’t work because you’d have to have different textures and types of fabric to differentiate the black. However from seeing the collection on the catwalk i felt that it really worked and you could see the different paneling and shapes, i actually think the all black really complimented it. Looking at the accessories again, i thought they worked really well, they gave this type of masculine side to womenswear and it seems quite powerful.

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Even though this collection isn’t one of my favourite i can see how each piece works together, and how these pieces could have been developed from each other. This could be a thinking point for me as when i’m thinking about creating a collection I tend to think i have to make completely different pieces, but this isn’t the case and instead make pieces that compliment each other.IMG_3121IMG_3119

This is another collection that I really liked, as i have decided to do menswear for third year i wanted to pay a little more attention to the features that i could see when it walked down the catwalk. I think the favourite part for me would be the large jacket, i think it’s a really lovely statement piece and works well with the accessories. This collection i think shows a type of sophisticated ‘hooligan’ kind of look, and i think it’s really wearable , as in i could imagine seeing people on the street wearing pieces from this collection.IMG_3117

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