I’ve started by completing the brand storyboards and the GFW and Bournemouth show storyboards with their write ups. I am meant to have 2 Catwalk designers and 2 high end high street that compliment the catwalk designers. However when researching i have highlighted Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood, Acne, Y-3 and G-Star RAW. I know this isn’t as fitting too the brief as it could be but i feel that these designers either play a part in the designer that i aspire to be, or designers that i need to keep in mind to create effective menswear.
This is also my storyboards for the shows that i went to see and my highlights from Bournemouth show, GFW AUB show, Nottingham Trent Show and Bath Spa.
Fastenings and Fabrics
Various fastenings and fabrics found in Kliens, Misan, Goldhawk road, cloth house, etc.
Rick Owens Store Experience (Highlight)
From visiting the Rick Owens store in Mayfair, London I was very worried about walking into the store to take pictures of the clothing. However, I was nicely surprised with the chilled atmosphere and the very helpful and knowledgeable shop assistant who gave me a lookbook and allowed me to take pictures of the overall store.
Upstairs is the catwalk collections whilst downstairs is the new ready-to-wear collections. Most of the shoes are unisex, but from what the assistant in the shop explained to me was usually women go for the knee high trainers whereas the men go for the lower cut ones, these two style of shoes were their best selling footwear pieces. From looking at the rails inside the shop I soon realized that all of the trousers were taller than the whole of my body, but from asking about this I was told that all the catwalk pieces are kept long and unhemmed so that when customers came to choose their garments they were altered to their desired fit. I was also told that many celebrities come into this store as this is the only one in England.
When asking about their customer base and who tends to buy which pieces the assistant told me that they have customers from all over the world, but generally Asian customers brought the most and really loved buying the trainers and joggers, more of a sportswear vibe. When asking about their best sold pieces I was told that their joggers have been sold out constantly even though they have only been with them for two seasons. The assistant continued to say that generally Owens keeps to the best sellers and just changes a few small pieces on it, such as colour, pockets because clearly the style and fit of the joggers are a hit. The fabrics are generally same for the men’s and woman’s clothing, but the only change in this seems to be a few of the colours, more light for the woman and darker for the men even though most pieces could be seen as unisex despite colour. Many of the outfits came as ‘two pieces’ such as a similar trouser and top, but they were interchangeable throughout the collection so that the buyer would not be limited. One of my most favorite pieces in the whole store was a long line puffer jacket, it just felt so weightless and comfortable, this was made from nylon and goose down.
The overall design of the store was just as considered as the clothing, walking downstairs the walls seemed like a type of cave with beautiful texture, everything laid out neatly, having a place and being shown in collection order. The store assistant said that it’s a really lovely company to work for and he’d actually been with them for 5 years, your voices are heard within the company and he said the best part was the occasional invites to the catwalk shows!
Dover Street Market
The Balenciaga exhibition was by far one of my favourite things that i had seen in london over the week. My favourite parts were the videos which were shown alongside the garments of how the patterns looked and how the garment was constructed. The way in which the garment was sewn together looked very simple, but the pattern cutting was so clever that when you are looking at the garment you couldn’t figure out how this was created. My favourite part to the exhibition was the show upstairs were it showcased other designers which had used Balenciaga as inspiration to create their own looks, each very different but coming from the same place which did open up my mind to looking at concepts in very different ways.
Graduate Fashion Week
The next shows that I went to see was AUB, Bath spa and Nottingham Trent at graduate fashion week. I have picked out a few of my favourite collections from each university. Images from the show, designers instagram and graduate fashion week instagram and website.
The photos that i was able to take at the show aren’t of the best quality because of the seating so instead i have found some images from the designers instagram and the graduate fashion week website. Watching Dan create his collection at university really had me excited to see it down the runway. This is probably one of my favourite collections I saw, I can really see how each piece could work together and how it would be interchangeable and make many different outfits which I think is important especially for menswear. The fabrics look really beautiful, as if each and everything had been considered and that nothing was an after thought.
The reason for loving this collection is because these pieces have inspired me to want to incorporate knit into my work. Normally i wouldn’t even consider knit as i just think of it as big chunky granny jumper but from seeing Joe’s work, especially the purple jumper, as inspired me to want to try knit. I think my doing this it would add an extra element to my work which could really help me develop. I also feel that his work gives more of a feminine edge to menswear which is something I would like to bring to my work.
In university i didn’t see much of Kristian’s work apart from his penis flower embroidery, and from this i really wanted to see how something like this would go down the catwalk at GFW. So when i was the collection these rude patches were actually really subtle and I think this added to the effect. I love how the collection works, i really like the elements of the skinhead streetwear vibe as streetwear is something that i really try to look to in my own work. How his work went down the catwalk was just as well executed, the first model only having trousers on with his bare chest, to then later be accompanied by the chest print jumper which actually looks so realistic.
Nottingham Trent University
Most of the designers that saw at NTU show i am following on instagram as i have been really excited to see their work. Firstly, Abby Coop, i’m just in love with the sillouhettes of the garments and how they have been pared with knit the whole collection works together and i really enjoy the simple colour palette so that you can really focus on the textile element. Again this is another collection that has inspired me to try knit.
Again the element of streetwear drew me towards this collection, and there seems to be this running theme of the knitwear pieces being what i see as the focal points. Even though there are a few different colours, prints and patterns this really works for the punk aspect of the collection and actually i think that’s what makes it work.
When this collection came down the runway i have never been more impressed. The way that the concept of Money, business men, suits and tailoring have been used works so well. Even though the idea of business men gives a very masculine image i feel that the choice of fabrics and garments gives a very slight feminine edge, which is why i love sarahs work so much. Everything about this collection has sophisticated, the concept the colours, the fabrics but I just really enjoy how fashion forward it looks also.
From watching the Bath spa show nothing particullarly jumped out at me apart from Catlyn’s work. The reasoning for this isn’t because i particularly like the collection, but because i can see how all these pieces work together and i can’t imagine how long the puffer jackets and print work must have taken. Her concept is also shown very strongly as it waked down the catwalk from the clothing to the music choice.
Insperation on the stands
AUB show Bournemouth
To begin my summer research I went and saw the AUB show at the Pavillion, not just for the COS live project that I participated in but also to see the hard work of the third years. I have added a few photos and small descriptions of collections that I liked.
I really love this collection from this show. I like the idea of an all black collection, but usually i feel that this wouldn’t work because you’d have to have different textures and types of fabric to differentiate the black. However from seeing the collection on the catwalk i felt that it really worked and you could see the different paneling and shapes, i actually think the all black really complimented it. Looking at the accessories again, i thought they worked really well, they gave this type of masculine side to womenswear and it seems quite powerful.
Even though this collection isn’t one of my favourite i can see how each piece works together, and how these pieces could have been developed from each other. This could be a thinking point for me as when i’m thinking about creating a collection I tend to think i have to make completely different pieces, but this isn’t the case and instead make pieces that compliment each other.
This is another collection that I really liked, as i have decided to do menswear for third year i wanted to pay a little more attention to the features that i could see when it walked down the catwalk. I think the favourite part for me would be the large jacket, i think it’s a really lovely statement piece and works well with the accessories. This collection i think shows a type of sophisticated ‘hooligan’ kind of look, and i think it’s really wearable , as in i could imagine seeing people on the street wearing pieces from this collection.