Watching all of our hard work on the catwalk really paid off, it all looked really amazing and i think it all worked together as a larger collection! The way in which the models came out to the music and the choice of music really complimented our outfits. Watching the show and seeing all of the third years work has made me excited but also really nervous about next year! I’m really glad i stayed for the live project because this gave me a taste for next year, and have slightly prepared me for the stress and excitement for getting our work ready for the show.
I felt that our feedback of the show was really good, when i went back stage briefly i could hear a few of the first years saying how much they loved the COS garments which made me really proud of all our work. Roll on Next year!
Wednesday and Thursday 17/18/05/2017
Wednesday I continued to complete my report as my group told me that they didn’t need all of us in as they were just making the bags and sorting out the outfits for the 1st years. So over the group chat Rachael kept us updated on how the bags were going, they had to dye the cord as we could not source a dark grey cord quick enough for Friday. From seeing what the group have made (4 leather bags) I’m really impressed with them and they will look so good with our outfits as fabrics from our collection have been used in contrast with the leathers.
Today (Thursday) I had some spare time so i went down to the Pavillion as I knew that some of the communication group were preparing for the show, I thought i’d go and have a look and help out. It was really nice seeing all the rails with the outfits on them for the different models, it reminds me of last year and how quick its gone! Today we rehearsed the different walks that the models will be doing tomorrow and helped unload one of the vans with the communication students work in it. I’m really excited about helping out tomorrow, but mostly for seeing the show as that was something I didn’t see last year from being behind the scenes.
Monday and Tuesday 15/16/05/2017
Monday we mostly spoke more about the styling, Bronwyn and Sakara went to various different shops to go and buy what we needed for everyones outfits. I felt that this was a much better idea this way we would all have the same look and style of shoes and accessories. From looking at the running order the menswear and unisex pieces have been moved between the rest of the womenswear groups, i think this is a really good idea so that everything works together as one big collection rather than separate.
Starting off with white and pale pink shoes and moving onto the red shoe for the more evening wear collections at the red shows a good flow through the group. I think that we are also talking about having the men wear maybe a pink or red sock to just introduce hints of the red that will be arriving at the end of the collection.
Yesterday (Monday) and today i have been working on completing my report and getting our group folder ready for the submission. But on Monday penny spoke about helping one of the womenswear groups, so myself and Sophie cut out and made these two white pleated dresses to help them out. I think that helping other groups to get to the finish line is really important as this shows how we are all working together to make sure that we are all represented the best when it comes to the Bournemouth show. (These dresses have been added to their collection as more of a modesty cover for the red dress and the shorter white pleated dress to be layered underneath a skirt)
Today was our styling and it went really well, are whole group are really happy with the outcome. When we first put our collection together the way that we first imagined it, it looked so different so the way in which our garments work together now really shows off each piece. My first worry was that my trousers and jumper would be too large on our model Zoe but actually the trousers fit really well which i’m so happy about as a unisex outfit. A couple of our pieces aren’t being used such as Sophies patterned and pink crepe top and Fayes jacket which everyone was in agreement with. Bronwyns Navy trousers have now been paired with a pink top from one of the womans wear groups and Sarahs teen coat is now having a stripe shirt underneath as a genderless childrens piece.
(All our work on hangers waiting for styling!)
As far as our styling we are including 3 scarfs, 3 glasses, 3 hats, potentially one leather bag and all wearing white converse style shoes. Over the weekend we will be sourcing these items.
(Images of Bronwyns trousers being paired with the womanswear group)
As a group i think were all feeling really relieved and happy about how we’ve worked together to get this collection done. Now were just really excited for the Bournemouth Show and seeing everything go down the catwalk!
Wednesday and Thursday 10 and 11/05/2017
Over the past few days I have been helping my group tie the rest of our outfits together. We’ve also had a think about how we would like our garments to be styled for Friday, we would like the models to have quite a sports look but not too casual. We were thinking white trainers, caps for some of the models who’s outfits suit this, and glasses we weren’t so much thinking sunglasses as this is an autumn/winter look but the clear sense ‘quirky’ glasses we think would suit best. We would also like to use some of our left over fabrics to personalise the trousers such as shoelaces or adding panels onto the shoes. These are some quick styling ideas that have been put onto our board ready for Friday were we can have some feedback on how we would dress our models to go down the catwalk.
These are a few of our garments that needed tying up for Friday, over the last few days i have just been supporting the group with cutting out fabric and finishing/making garments. I have also finished everyones spec sheets so that these are ready to be laid out together as a group. So far everything has worked to time and i feel that our group has been organised, been really enjoyable project actually!
Monday and Tuesday 8 and 9/05/2017
For the last couple of days I have been working on making the jumper and redrawing our new flat specs, altering them and also creating everyones specification sheets. As i am doing the layouts for the line plan and range plan we all thought it would be a good idea that I also used the same style for the specification sheets.
(Images of the jumper that I made yesterday)
These are my screenshots of my own spec sheets (still in progress). Today I finished laying out everyone else spec sheets and put them into the one drive so they that can download them and make their own adjustments such as descriptions and adding layplans. I have also sent Sarah over all the new and changed technical drawings so she has plenty of time to put the fabrics into them and send them back over to me to complete the layout.
Thinking ahead for how we would like these presented as a group we were all thinking that we have a A3 folder with our line plan, range plan and our line up at the front and following these are our individual design drawings (which Sophie has been working on) with the specification sheets and lay plans along side them. By presenting this way we feel that it looks professional and puts all of our information in one place.
This evening myself and Sophie laid the top that Sophie developed but is being used for Bronwyns outfit and Fayes shirt so that I could begin making the shirt tomorrow morning. I think as a group we are feeling more and more confident about Friday we have started generating a few ideas for the styling on Friday and hopefully our garments will be coming together quicker now that myself and Charlie are free to help the group.
Today we had our group meeting about trousers and fabrics. Overall it went quite well we really wanted to ensure that we kept quite a refined colour palette, as from our feedback we really needed to refine out collection and ideas. We still have a broad range of trouser but we feel that these give a good choice of trouser, myself and Bronwyn have the same front and back seams in our trousers with Bronwyns having a slightly tighter fit around the leg, Sarahs teens trousers and Faye have a more of a jogger look which gives the ‘Mini me’ look for the teen, and a few different trousers from Leona, Charlie and Sophie. We are using three of Sophies top, one in a cotton, another in a polo fabric and Sophies main ‘show stopper’ piece with the Salmon crepe and a pattern fabric. We are keeping with our original outerwear apart from the coat that i had developed.
(New colour palette)
When I was developing my coat to not have the cut outs that I originally designed I thought that by covering this up it just became a ‘normal’ jacket and the intention of the jacket was for drape to work well with the collection as a whole. Once i spoke to the group we all decided that my coat would not work anymore and that I should work on something else instead that would compliment our collection. Even though i have developed this coat a lot throughout the last couple of weeks, I fully felt that my coat did not fit with the collection and i’m happy that we were able to speak openly about this as a group. Instead we all agreed that i could create a oversized slouchy knit jumper to add more options to our group. The knit fabric that i am using is the same as sarahs teen trousers and Fayes trousers. The pattern from the top originated from Brownyns past project, I will be using rib for the cuffs and the collar.
Even though I was not using my jacket anymore i still wanted to develop on it so that maybe in the future i could use it again. The main problem was my front and back pieces, armholes and the sleeves. The Sleeves have been changed to 1 piece as this gives less of a formal look and much more movement. From 3D fit i can already see the extra movement that the change of the front and back pieces and the sleeves has created.
(In the images i have shown how i sewed my pieces together and the changes made to the front and the back, this also shows how wrong my original front and back pieces were.)
3D fit of the jumper that i am now making. Even though 3D doesn’t give a very good representation of how the jumper will fall i can see that it is very oversized and would be appropriate for what the group wants.
This is the lay plan for my jumper, sarahs teen trousers and sarahs mens trousers that faye is using for her outfit. Overall i am happy with the efficiency as my jumper laid alone is 66%, so 81.66% efficiency is a very big jump.
I finished my trouser today and fitted it on a model so i was able to take up the correct hem. Overall i am pleased with the trousers apart from a few problems i had with the fabric and with the bias binding, even though the top stitching on the one seam gathered up i was able to evenly do this throughout my trousers so this gave a new feature to the trouser and i feel it still looks sporty and appropriate.
I also tried my toile of the jacket on the model today to take pictures for feedback tomorrow.
From having a group meeting today with Ian who works with the 3rd years and specialises in menswear we were able to get a better insight to the direction of our collection. As we have quite a few different pairs of trousers within our collection we all agreed that this needed to be narrowed down, so tomorrow we are having a fitting of each of our trousers to then choose the most appropriate ones for the collection. Sophie’s draped top is now being made in, a shirting material, polo top style and then the mixture of the heavy fabric with the crepe as our ‘show stopper’ piece. From talking to Ian and as a group we thought it would be beneficial to include a beautiful cut white shirt, or some type of t-shirt as a ‘basic’ piece to be used underneath our outerwear. Theres the possibility of using a pleated white fabric as an oversized top for my outfit, the pattern has come from Bronwyns previous projects as it’s still fitting to this. Tomorrow we will also be discussing the coat from my outfit as i originally wanted the cutouts that i have been developing over the weeks, but from the feedback from Ian it defeats the object of a jacket (from having large cutouts) i can see where he’s coming from, however i do really like my jacket and think its quirky with the cutouts and i feel that the group also agree. But i am open to change on this as if it benefits the collection as a whole then i will be fine with this. Our group is still open to fabric choices and changes but by tomorrow we were all hoping to wrap this up once and for all so we can focus on getting our garments made so we have enough time to carefully sew them together.
After our meeting i began making my trousers, overall they’re going how i expected apart from the difficultly of the fabric. I really love the look of this pink coated fabric however it’s very difficult to work with, stretches so much and whatever i seem to do it gathers up. I have to be very careful with how many times i can unpick this because of the holes that are left behind in the fabric, so sadly some areas aren’t upto the standard that I want but this gives me good experience with this fabric for future reference. I am using binding that has been brought instead of using bias strips from the same fabric, which again i’m disappointed with because the amount of fabric i would have needed for the bias strips just wouldn’t have been there. This would have given a higher quality finish however it just wasn’t possible at this time, but then again this helps me again for next year, and i have completed a few samples to keep as a reminder of how the correct finishes look compared to others.
From the images above it shows how i laid the pieces to match my lay plan, my hand binding, the first leg i have completed so far and where the fabric had puckered up (before this it has been unpicked twice but i could risk it again and just went with the effect that it gave) Eventhough this isn’t ideal i do feel that i don’t mind it as much as i managed to get the same effect evenly on the other side which i feel now looks like a feature more than a mistake. I will check how the group feels on this tomorrow and go from there.
I finished my coat toile over these two days, it was very stressful as a few of my facings were wrong and I needed to consider the way that the lining goes in as my top half and bottom half of the coat are like separate lining pieces. I was able to attach the lining in the end but i need to take more time and really think about it when i make the final coat this i will probably make over 2 days and really give myself time as this is my most important part of my outfit. Since this toile i have made the changes to the facing pieces and have begun noting down the steps that i need to take to put the jacket together so i can follow this when i start making my final jacket.
From speaking to Carl i know what areas the group (mainly myself, Leona and Sarah) need to improve on for the line/range plan. I need to have a more considered layout and space this across 2 pages if necessary to give the right scale and space, also overlaping the fronts and backs of garments to give more space, i need to think about the layout of the text also. Sarah needs to ensure the scale of the fabrics are correct as at the moment they are a bit too big and don’t give the correct repersentation of our fabrics, and for the line drawings we just need to ensure that they are all kept upto date with any changes or outfits that have been dropped from the collection.
Once talking as a group and reviewing our work faye is now having the same trousers as Bronwyn as they developed these together, and from the COS feedback we could see that they were really loving Sophies drape which was developed from the chair cover, so we were thinking of having this a couple times throughout our collection but in different fabrics to see how this would look, but also this helps us with our time management. By the end of today we need our layplans nearly finished so we can begin gathering our fabrics and cutting them out.
I created a Layplan for the grey/silver fabric which includes myself, Faye and Sophies garments. We need 3.905m of fabric and its at 82.82% efficency which works well for us as Faye was worried about the effiency of her trousers and this has improved all of our garments.
This layplan is for myself and Leona’s pink fabric, we need 6.510m of fabric and its at 75.98% effiecny we both aren’t sure whether laying our patterns together is beneifcial.
This pattern below is my trousers laid on their own, it would be at 76.68% efficency and using 1.7m of fabric.
This is Leona’s poncho which is using 4.841m of fabric and with 74.02% efficency. So if we were to lay our patterns seperatly we would be using 6.5m exactly of fabric which is only just so slightly less but still less and this would make it easier as indiviuals to cut our pieces out.
Today i was working on my coat toile again, half way through constructing the jacket we had a group toile review. Overall our group had a few changes to make and a few more toile that needed to be completed. My coat needs a lot of changes and now the jacket will be lined instead of being bound everywhere, this does help me because then i am able to hide anything to make it neat and the amount of facing that i would have to have would just look better with a lining. The front of my jacket was the biggest problem, because i added to the centre front this didn’t work because i needed to cut and slash into the pattern, i also wanted to make the tunnels for the cord bigger to 3cm at the bottom, middle and around the hood (even though this isn’t having cord through this). For the rest of the day and evening i was working on my coat pattern so i could begin a new toile as i am getting a little bit worried about finishing in time. We were also shown how to use the own fabric binding machine which gives a really lovely finish and i wish that i could use this for my trousers as it would give a nice effect. However as a group we don’t think that this would be realistic with the time that we have left, or within our layplans, we are really upset about this as it does give a nice finish but for now binding brought from the shop will be good enough for now. From being shown this machine this will help us plan again for next year when we come to a similar stage.
Myself and Leona went to London today to go and buy a few fastenings, as we already knew what we were looking for we said to the group that we would take pictures, prices and item numbers for the rest of the group so that they could order over the phone instead of going to London and to give them more time to decide.
I brought some of the silver adjusters and toggles and managed to get them a little cheaper by buying from different stores. I have also chosen grey drawstring as i thought that this colour of grey will work well with my pink trousers but also with the silver/grey fabric for the coat. When looking for double ended zips i found it a bit more difficult to find grey zips but with metal teeth in the size i wanted, however i still really like the zip i brought as the grey teeth will fade nicely into my fabric and it still has metal pulls.
We look pictures of the different snap fastenings, adjusters, cord stops and zips for the rest of the group so that they could make their decisions from this as it’s getting really close to the end of the project.
From completing my coat toile it actually went better than expected, of there are a few changes i want to make. Instead of having a covered zip i wanted to have it exposed seeing as the zips that i’m buying are of good quality and i think they’d make a really nice feature. I need to add more to the front panels as they’re too tight across the chest and the hood doesn’t fit correctly, drop the pocket as it is too high and add facings to keep the edges clean with the binding. Tomorrow i’m going to London to buy the fastenings and also do research for the group to collect images and product numbers so the rest of the group can choose what they want and be able to order these over the phone. For the draw strings on the waist instead ill be making a channel on the inside of the jacket to have a much cleaner look and the fabric won’t bunch up like it has in the images.
I have also began working on my T-shirt, using sarans pattern to aid my design so that we can lay our patterns together to have much better efficiency. This still need a lot of work and i will need to play around with the marker but hopefully this will be quite efficient patterns. Putting these onto 3d has helped be see where the t-shirt would sit, but also how the panels on the sleeves will look. These panels to make this top longer are the off cuts from sarans t-shirt. I will really need to toile this as i’m really unsure on the fit because if i’m going off of sarah sizing this would fit on a 14 year old. Below is an image of the marker that still needs playing around with as its around 81% efficient at the moment.
These are updated lay plans from yesterday as my coat pattern has changed, but also i got the widths wrong for the trouser.
Today I began working on my coat from the pattern that I worked on Friday. From doing the toile I could see that i had made my hood much to short on the front so it didn’t line up with the CF of the jacket, and the hood was also cut too deep. I have added in room for the drawstrings, and made changes to the armholes so that I will be able to fit the sleeve in effectively this time. I also began marking out where i would want the eyelets and the placket that will hide my zip and have poppers underneath. From making the hood pattern wrong this shows me that toiling is still very important whilst working with 3D fit as the 3D screenshots show the hood fitting but the hood was way off once I toiled. I’ve spent most of the day working on the jacket pattern to then start with a new toile tomorrow.
I started working on my undertop also, this is just a very basic shape i have changed the armhole slightly so that it would sit flat if i wanted to lay the pattern more efficiently. Over the week i want to start working on this and potentially paneling the sleeves to create a more efficient pattern, however i will need to be careful of this as I’m working with a striped fabric and wouldn’t want this to look like an after thought. I used 3D fit for the length of the top.
My final trouser pattern (76.52%) and Coat lay plan which is still to be finalised (81.75%), not the most efficient however once we lay our patterns together using Diamino we should create a much better efficiency. The trouser pattern is the most worrying as of how much waste there is however as a group we have all struggled with making the trousers less wasteful, there are quite a few of us in the group using this same fabric and were hoping the pannels work to our favour and an easily create pocket bags from the left overs.
The presentation seemed to go really well today, even though we don’t yet have feedback from COS as there were technical difficulties the feedback from the tutors after really made our group feel happy with the work that we had done.
After the presentation I began developing my coat by cutting up the pieces ready to digitise, I also started drawing on where I wanted my pockets and draw strings so that I’m able to go to London next week to get our fastenings. I have cut the front and back separately and i have to drape also cut separately i feel like this will be the most effective way to have my panels.
Once the pieces had been digitised in developed the patterns, added sleeves and a hood and did my first test fit on 3D to see whether the pattern was worth printing out to toile. So far the fit isn’t looking too bad but i would rather make this into a calico toile to draw anymore panels and see if the fit is correct on an actual person. I’m happy with the fact that my desk of stitches skills are coming along as this was something I really struggled with before this project, it’s quite nice to have the time to fully explore and take my time learning these skills before 3rd year.
From meeting up today we were able to re-arrange our boards and i was able to finalise the layouts of the range plan and line plan. We were also able to run through our scripts which have made a massive improvement from our practice yesterday, so hopefully tomorrow will run smoothly!
After having our COS Skype call changed to Friday instead of yesterday this gave us time improve our presentation, Leona sent me the finished technical drawings that she had been working on throughout Easter so that I am able to lay these out onto the A2 boards to be shown along side the customer profile, moodboard, fastenings and finishing board and the range plan which Sarah has been working on. As a group we have decided to write ourselves small scripts so that our presentation runs smoothly and to show a few of our toile and samples which support our presentation boards (such as the fastenings and finishes). We will be meeting up on Thursday to rehearse and go over any other last minute touches.
After coming back from the Easter break I decided to get straight into finishing my trousers ready to the development of my coat and undertop. From using 3D i was able to see if anymore adjustments needed to be made before I completed my toile so there wasn’t any need to waste more calico.
From using the basic mens loose fit top and fitting on 3D I can see I needed to drop the armhole slightly as it’ll fit too tightly and the sleeves are much too long. I have also changed the neck to more square however these are just experiments as I want to try out maybe paneling the sleeves so that I could lay my patterns more effectively by using panels.
Overall I think that the trousers with the seams at the front and the back work really well and our group is happy with the cord stoppers and spring toggles that we are using for the trousers (these trousers will be shown to COS to support our samples). I am also happy with the placement with the pockets and how they look on the trouser, I also think that they are suitably ‘concealed’ to go with our overall finishings feel. However the few areas that I need to improve on the trousers are just general areas that i need to be more careful with such as the sizing of the zips as I struggled to keep the sewing neat on the welt as the zip was too small, ensure I attach the elastic correctly on the inside so that I can push the cord through. I also really want to bind all of the seams as i really think that this will give a beautifully finished garment like the ones seen when Sarah mole showed us the 10 year anniversary collection. I have chosen to fit my trousers onto a slim male model so that this will be suitable also for a woman, these trousers fit well to my male model and when i try them on they also fit well once the drawstring has been pulled in to give a high waisted look.
I have also started developing my coat that I started over easter, i was quite excited to start this because of the drape that i got working on the stand but i wanted to try this out in a jacket shape. From doing my first rough toile I was quite upset because the drape didn’t look how i initially thought it would. The shape that i had on the mannequin just wasn’t the same on the body, i also don’t think that this would be suitable for a jacket anyway as it wouldn’t fit well. By drawing where i want to add panels and cutting out sections i will then develop further on these shapes and use 3D fit to help me with my toile before completing them in calico.
From the last trouser toile that myself and Rachael worked on i have drawn the panels that i want onto one leg (leaving one left for Rachael to work on, she also has one of our toiles and the patterns). From this i cut up my patterns and pieces them together to create the panels so that the seams are at the front and back instead of the sides. The trousers are still too big, but i was expecting this because of the change in the side seams. From pinning the front seam (1cm to each seam) and pinning the back seam (1.5cm to each seam) this creates more of a straight leg and takes the extra out of the back around the bum area. (I need to revisit the waistband as it keeps twisting when i try to attach the front waistband to the trousers and creates the pulling that you see around the back).
So far I do think that the trousers are going well, the next (and maybe final) toile that I would like to do will be with the pocket samples in place to see how these fit. I will also try these on a female model to see if they are suitable for ‘unisex’ and make changes accordingly.
Today I was going to start the coat pattern, however when I started draping on the mannequin I thought this would now be more suitable for the coat. Laying the pattern on the calico I then drew diagonal lines from the corners of where the armholes meet this uses all of the fabric apart of the neck hole which could be used for a pocket bag.
When draping I didn’t want to have a kimono shape so at the points of the jacket i overlapped them underneath each other which could add some really nice seam detail and this created the side drape that i wanted. After i cut and slashes into it to make the cowl shape larger. From drawing onto the fabric where i want the sleeve to be dropped to i began cutting the pieces away to make two separate patterns one has the slashed cowl shape and the other does not, just so i have a pattern to reference from when i get back to university.
I also started a few new samples, which I think will work really well with how we want our pockets to look. After putting my photos into the group chat everyone also agreed that we like these pockets. However I will need to re-sample these at university as my sewing machine doesn’t give the clean stitches that we need to ensure our finishes are perfect.
Thursday 30/03/2017 and Friday 31/03/2017
Our group met up on Thursday to toile our trousers with the elasticated waist band to see how it fits, from using 3D fit I can begin looking at the problem areas such as the back of the trouser and whether we need to take more off of the leg to make it more straight. This will also be a chance to sample how we would like the elastic waistband to be.
As a group we think that this waistband with the small tunnel for the draw string looks effective and we are all really happy with this. For this toile the back of the trouser needs more taking from the crotch and also from the sides as they are very large around the hips.
Myself and Leona also began sampling binding and pocket with zip samples. We prefer the thicker binding as we feel like this gives more of a clean finish but also the larger binding look creates more of a feature. As a group we were also considering using left over fabric from the patterns to make our own binding.
This is a line up with our desired fabrics, we tried to consider every fabric as a group so that they work well with our designs but they also link to each other when walking down the runway.
Our second toile was completed on Friday, in the images the left leg was taken in by an extra 2 cm from the knee downwards and shortened by around 10 cm which now gives a much better fit. (The pulling around the back is due to the waistband pulling, however we know how to correct this)
Some more 3D work, i tried the fabrics that i have chosen for my outfit to see how these would look. The top that i have started to look at is a very square shape i want to develop this with sarah’s pattern to include the 0% waste aspect as we are using the same stripe fabric. (Using the square sleeves, i will be developing this over the holiday)
From the digitised pattern yesterday i began by adding a waistband on Lectra so that I would put this into 3D fit. So far on the mens model it seems to fit ok, the only problems that i can see when it comes to toiling the trouser would be around the back of the trouser there may be too much fabric from where we flared the waist, when i create the toile i will cut out any extra fabric from the back to develop the fit of the trouser. I also put the trousers on a female model as my outfit is unisex, it doesn’t fit as well which was to be expected however when i toile this i will also fit it on a female with the draw string as this could change the look once tied in at the waist.
From watching Carls illustrator class our group now understands how important it is to learn illustrator correctly when going into industry and where as before i would be using photoshop to drop fabrics into my technical drawings i can use illustrator for this.
On Thursday we will be meeting up as a group to begin sampling our pockets and finishes, developing on our trousers by adding the elasticated waist and our separate panels. We will also be considering which fabrics we would like for each garment to create our own colour palette by using all three of the fabric stories. Also when we had a quick meeting with Veronica and Penny they suggested developing our childrens wear outfit so it looked more like a ‘mini me’ from one of the menswear outfits. We will also each create a jumpsuit/boiler suit with the use of drape to add into our collection.
As a group we began by narrowing down finishings and fastenings so that we could link our outfits together to create a flowing collection. Below is our board that we are using for the presentation tomorrow. We have all decided on which poppers, cord, pockets and zippers that we would like to use/sample for our collections. For this research i decided to look on Kleins and Macculloch and Wallis so that if we chose these fastenings we would be able to easily source them or get samples for these.
We also began delegating tasks to each other after seeing Carl’s workshop about line plans/range plans and tech drawings. Sophie is creating a stylised line up of all our outfits so that they are designed in the same way, Sophie is also including our new fastenings and the small changes that we made to the trousers. Myself and Leona will be working together on the line plans and Sarah will be working on the range plan, Bronwyn will be researching how we would like to present out work e.g. stylising our outfits and how we would like this to flow down the runway, i will mostly be creating the layouts for the line plans and the spec sheets.
Before i started the full scale trouser toiles i used Leona’s mini mannequin 4 panel trouser to have a look at the fit and see if i could work from this to create my pattern. However the pattern was so tight that it barely fit onto the mini. This is when i thought it would be better to work on a larger scale and then this way i would be able to fit it into a male model to see how it fits. (Once the elasticated waist has been fitted i would like to try this on a woman so that i can see the fit as i am still keeping my genderless fit but maybe taking a more masculine approach)
Myself, Faye, Rachel and Bronwyn were creating the two different types of trousers for other team members to work from. Rachel and I were working on the basic mens (straight leg) trouser which has been digitised in for Leona to work from and Faye and Bronwyn were working on the slim fit basic mens trouser for the other members of the team to work from.
(Below is Faye and Bronwyn trousers, they found these to be a good fit and they are developing an elasticated waist band and panels onto these tomorrow. Whilst others in the group will be using a fly zipper and panels.)
(Myself and Faye’s first trouser fit from the basic block which needed changing as they are too tight around the crotch and bum area)
(From this we slashed down the side and added 2cm to the side seam which gave the room around the crotch and the bum that we needed, the waist was a little large however we are developing this into an elasticated waist so we can asses what needs changing then)
These are images from how we enlarged the waist to create the elasticated waist, this has been digitised in and will be toiled tomorrow for fitting for myself and Rachel to then go from there to create out different panels on the trousers.
After having Sarah come in from COS today it has really put our group into a different direction. Once our designs were looked over by the tutors and Sarah the advice given was about making our collection look more similar and maybe splitting the group into separate little groups to each focus on different points. As we are doing menswear we really need to carefully consider our finishes, fastenings and things like cuffs and collars as these are majorly important. Myself and Faye are looking into the finishings and fastenings as this was an area i already began looking at, Bronwyn and Leona are looking into shapes of trousers so we can develop these together with different seams etc.
Above are our initial designs take from our own 6 line up, we have slightly refined them from the other day including more similar seams. However they are still very much looking like they came from different collections more than just one group collection which is where we need to be at.
On Monday we want to come back together to discuss our customer further and begin creating shapes on calico, for example earlier in the day Sarah showed us a way which she used for her experiments of using a basic block and laying it onto the fabric and then seeing what fabric is left behind to then inform our next design step this could then be linked into (for example) the hood on another coat. From seeing this way of working i feel that this will be a more beneficial direction for our group to go in. A problem which came up in our group was about what if we used this way, but then the fabrics we wanted to use weren’t the same as the patterns we cut from the zero waste square? But i thought that at this early stage of toiling i don’t think that we should particularly worry about the colours of the fabrics to inform our designs YET because this can be figured out a little later.
The powerpoint and presentation this morning of the 10 year anniversary collection was really lovely to see and i didn’t realise the thought process behind all of the ‘simple’ looking shapes. The way that the inside of the garments were finished off were to such a high standard and is something that our group wants to take on board as it gives a very high quality standard to the garments. The presentation also shows us the thought process behind the ‘zero waste/minimal waste’ pattern cutting and how it can be used to create innovative designs, it isn’t very ‘production friendly’ especially with the size grading.
Over the weekend I will be working with Faye to really narrow down our fastenings and finishes so that we can include these within the initial design process, and so that they have been considered and sampled throughout the project and not just at the end.
Today is the group selection and colour palette selection. From explaining my ideas and listening to everyone else’s I think this worked really well because it was as if we were pitching to each other so that we would want to work with each other. By the end of the day I was really pleased with the group, we have a group of 8 which is slightly bigger than the others but this just means we will have an 8 piece collection, but this could also work to our advantage because if one look isn’t working we have the freedom to drop or add pieces. In our group is Bronwyn, Faye, Leona, Charlie, Rachel, Sophie and Sarah, 6 mens wear, 1 unisex (me) and Sarah’s 13/14-year-old boys wear. We’ve began by choosing a favourite design from each others work to piece together, tomorrow we will be developing on these and researching customer and details to add to our collection. The colour palettes that have been chosen are the pink and the greys, I really love this also as we have the freedom to move within the two palettes which i feel will work really well.
From a couple of my favourite designs I decided to then begin trying out these shapes on the mannequin from sewing the slash and cut openings to a circle shape it gave me this ‘cowl’ draped shape which i thought would be really lovely for trousers, or maybe for coat detailing.
Designs for the selection tomorrow
Using the photos that I enlarged and pieced together yesterday i was able to create shapes in calico and also with the paper to give a more rigid look. So far I think this is the most successful session that I have had, as far as my development work goes. From these images over the weekend I’m going to begin designing for our group selection on Tuesday.
I began by watching a few documentaries on brutalist architecture in London, the main two buildings that they spoke about were the Trellick Tower and the Alexander Fleming building and how a lot of people thought of these as eyesores whilst others wanted the buildings protected and maintained correctly. These buildings were also like fortresses they gave the residents who lived here (Trellick tower) natural light from the big open windows and being so high in the air, Laundrettes and elevators away from the main part of the building, these buildings were carefully designed and this is something that I need to carry through into my designs for COS. Thinking briefly about my ideas for prints I thought I could incorporate the idea of how the buildings are no longer maintained properly so the rust from the exposed pipes, the water marks and the moss growing at the sides of the buildings could be used as my inspiration (subject to how the group selection works out and whether we would like to incorporate print). I have also printed off a lot of pictures and enlarged them to piece together to make shapes ready for the session on Friday so on the weekend and Monday and I can really get into designing my 6 outfits for the group selection on Tuesday.
After presenting my idea board i wasn’t 100% sure on my idea and where I wanted to go with this, however after talking to the tutors this really is going to helped me into the right direction. I needed to improve on refining my idea, i had some images on the board that really didn’t make sense together, such as the internet images of buildings and the ones i took, they contradicted each other. After looking on the suggested websites from Veronica (Design Boom) I have decided to look into the more bold shapes from Brutalist Architecture which came about from the 1950’s to the mid 70’s. From this I want to create patterns from these bold shapes but from using different fabrics such as ridged and more flowing fabrics this could change the look of the pattern overall. By using these contrasting fabrics this could work really nicely with my idea of a genderless collection. Within the next couple of days i need to create new patterns from the architecture shapes to begin developing my collection for next Tuesday when we begin selecting groups.
Developing on from yesterdays work with Leona we began by trying to cut up the pattern to begin to digitise this in so that we could begin to go our separate ways.
(Images below of trying to draw seams and create armholes and opening ready for digitising)
By marrying pieces together i have been able to make sure the pattern lines up and make a few changes so that I can try this out on 3D, i have also scaled them up so that i can try them on a male and female 3D model.
3D fit Male and Female models to see how to pattern fits on both genders. Admittedly it does look very feminine on the man, but i feel like with the right details like collars, pockets, the right fabrics and sleeves this could possibly be a Jacket for both men and women. I would like to push myself on 3D fit throughout this project as i know that COS use the lectra system, from the pervious projects i think that being a lectra pattern cutter is where i would like to go after university.
Today we were also introduced to the 3 fabric stories, I really love all of them! So i’m happy with whatever I get in the group selection, if I had to choose it would probably be the pinks and the lighter colours just because I think this could work really lovely in a genderless collection but any palette is good for me.
Myself and Leona worked on the stand together, using geometrical shapes which Leona had from her research which fit in with my ideas of using buildings and their boxy shapes. We managed to get a much better outcome than last week as we were using more draping fabric to create soft shapes. From this i think it would really help my development work, i want to try out with more buildings, however I need to get help tomorrow when we present our boards as I’m finding it difficult to go from here.